A Taste of Africa - Merkato Ethiopian Cafe

In order to continue the African theme I’d started on wines at Vegas Wineaux, I decided that I needed to experience genuine African cuisine. I am in the early planning stages of having an African-themed wine tasting, and – while it is some months away – figured that this is as good a time as any to begin research.

Las Vegas is blessed with an abundance of restaurants showcasing international cuisine, and they range from small neighborhood restaurants to top-dollar venues in the Strip properties. I found Merkato in the pages of one of the local weekly newspapers and decided to give it a try.

It is located on Twain, just east of Swenson in a strip mall that also houses Haifa, a Glatt Kosher restaurant and market, and Togoshi, a Japanese Ramen restaurant. We did not go into Merkato’s market that is connected to the restaurant because we were pretty hungry and wanted to get right to the food!

The first thing I noticed is that we were the only non-Ethiopians in the place. That’s always a good sign. The décor is Spartan but functional, and we were able to seat ourselves.

The service is, um, *leisurely,* but we didn’t mind. It gave me plenty of time to peruse the menu, which had about 25(ish) dishes written in Ethiopian (Amharic, a Semitic language) and in English.

For an appetizer, we chose Yemuser Sambusa – which has a beautiful sound when spoken by a native – a hot, flakey pastry stuffed with spice lentils.

First of all, everything that came to us was fragrant. My laboratory (nose and palate) which usually picks up nuances of even the most complex of fragrances and flavors, was completely overwhelmed by the food perfume. I couldn’t even begin to tell you the spices in this pastry, but it smelled wonderful and had tons of flavor.

Another small detail that I forgot to mention … there are no forks. While there are napkins available, everything is eaten by hand.

My companion ordered Merkato Derek Tibs Lamb, which consisted of tiny cubes of lamb mixed with fragrant vegetables: onions, garlic, peppers, herbs and spices for starters. I ordered the Gored Gored which is cubed, barely cooked beef marinated in red wine and rosemary, and sautéed in purified butter with onions, garlic, and herbs. It is served with Awaze, an incredible pepper paste.

Just as in Thai restaurants, I was asked what level of heat I’d prefer. I played it safe and went with medium.

English is a little bit of a problem, and understanding the wait staff can be somewhat problematic. For instance, the waitress asked if we wanted one or two dishes. We said two, and in hindsight, I understand what she meant. It’s not that the portions are huge – they aren’t – but because you are eating the meal with injera, the indigenous bread made of Teff, the meal was quickly filling. The meal is served on a large round platter – about 18 or so inches in diameter – which has a single large injera covering the surface along with a bit of salad that’s seasoned with oil, vinegar, and spices. The other dishes are then spooned onto the platter, and you are able to share with your dining partners. You are given a basket of additional injera to enjoy with your meal.  In other words, we could have ordered one dish between the two of us and it would have been enough.

The injera was interesting. It has the look and feel of a thin piece of foam; it’s very spongy. Because it is fermented for a couple of days before it’s cooked, it’s packed with tangy, sourdoughesque flavor. There’s a little spicy heat on the palate, which when coupled with the spiciness of the food, makes for watery eyes and draining sinuses. I’m not one who usually enjoys very hot food, but this was extraordinary. We asked for go boxes after we cried uncle.

I asked for the Ethiopian coffee, but the person who makes it at tableside was not available, so we opted for hot tea. The water arrived in a clear glass cup along with a couple of tea bags. We looked at each other because the water was already tinged slightly brown. I brought the cup close to my nose and was greeted with fragrances of cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg(?), and some other spices that I couldn’t identify. It flavored the tea and we both drained our cups. No sweeteners were needed! It was, surprisingly enough, cooling after that spicy meal.

The Ethiopian coffee, by the way, is supposed to be quite the ceremony. The coffee is brought out to your table and roasted and ground.  The coffee is then prepared similarly to the Pulled Tea of India, and is said to be flavorful but very strong.

The total, after taxes and a 20% tip, was $31.00. A bargain.

Will I go back? You bet. Merkato’s spicy, fragrant, and delicious food is well worth the trip.  And as always, my adventurous palate will take me where there’s good food.  And if it’s off the culinary beaten path, so much the better.

Merkato Ethiopian Café, 855 E. Twain Ave, Las Vegas. Hours from 11:00 a.m. till they close.

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